Junihitoe (十二単, “twelve-layer robe”) is a traditional Japanese court costume worn by noblewomen during the Heian period (794–1185). It is one of the most iconic symbols of Japan’s aristocratic culture. Despite its name, a junihitoe could have more or fewer than twelve layers, with the number varying based on the wearer’s rank and the occasion.
This exquisite garment is a multilayered ensemble composed of silk robes, each carefully chosen for its color, texture, and seasonal or symbolic significance. The outermost layer, the uchigi, displays the wearer’s status, while the layering itself creates a stunning interplay of colors at the sleeve and hem, reflecting the refined aesthetic of Heian court life.
The origins of the junihitoe date back to the 10th century when layered clothing became a courtly fashion trend. The practice of layering evolved into an art form known as ‘kasane no irome’ (color layering), demonstrating the wearer’s taste, seasonality, and knowledge of poetry and nature.
Interesting facts include its incredible weight, often exceeding 40 pounds, making movement slow and deliberate. Today, the junihitoe is primarily worn by the Imperial family and during cultural reenactments, offering a glimpse into Japan’s rich aristocratic heritage.
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